The 800-mile long desert and mountain wilderness of the Baja California peninsula was first colonized nearly 300 years ago by the Jesuit missions, but suffice it to say that large swaths of the landscape haven’t changed much over time. While visiting the southernmost part of Baja California Sur, also known as Los Cabos, we decided to leave the bustling fishing center and tourist town of Cabo San Lucas and take the road less traveled in search of wildlife and beach life along the Sea of Cortez.

On the advice of Fredy, an adorable local surfer we met, we decided to make our way to the beaches of La Paz, about two hours north of Cabo San Lucas on the Sea of Cortez, aka Gulf of California. Travel Maestro tip: Car rental is very inexpensive, although insurance is mandatory in Mexico. The view was incredibly dramatic as we drove north along the Pacific coast. The early fog hung low in a massive cloud bank over the water. As the day warmed, the fog dissipated to reveal simply stunning vistas to the left of azure water meeting cerulean sky. To the right were endless expanses of wild desert and the looming Sierra de la Laguna and I kept thinking about how challenging this trip would have been on horseback. The drive was very easy on a new paved highway, but we were warned repeatedly by people we met to be careful of cows. We thought this was rather funny, but soon found out cows are a valid road hazard. Apparently cows wander wherever they wish.

We left the Pacific coast and continued north across the peninsula to La Paz, the capital of the state of Baja California Sur (south). There, along the shore of the Sea of Cortez, is a lovely malecon (seaside walkway) studded with public art and lined with plenty of restaurants. It was perfect for a long stroll or a quick bite, but we were in quest of the quiet beaches further north, so we didn’t linger.

Fredy had told us “Just when you think you’ve missed the beaches, go a little further.” We drove about 15 minutes past the city before the string of picturesque beaches began, but on Fredy’s recommendation, we headed to the last two – Playa Balandra and El Ticolote. Travel Maestro tip:  Wherever your travels take you, strike up a conversation with a resident to find off the beaten path favorites for beaches, restaurants and local culture.

Balandra is a huge horseshoe bay, ringed in volcanic rocks and cliffs. There is a long crescent of sugary beach with a dozen or so permanent palapas (umbrellas) overlooking sparkling, electric blue water. The most amazing thing was that you could wade hundreds of yards out and not get more than thigh-deep. During low tide you can literally walk across the entire bay. The water was ridiculously clear. I was completely entranced by the beautiful rippled patterns drawn in the soft sand floor by the gentle water currents and the way the sun bounced little stars off the water’s surface like a tiny celestial firmament. 

A beautiful arch and a unique mushroom rock formation have been erroded by wind and water. Rock overhangs provide shady spots next to the water’s edge. There are no facilities or services here, so you’ll want to take your own food, drink and snorkel gear, but there is usually a taco truck and kayaks for rent. With shallow water and no waves, Balandra is perfect for families and popular with locals but if you visit on a weekday you may have very few beach companions. Travel Maestro tip: Remember to do the “stingray shuffle” in the water to avoid a nasty sting and leave by sunset when killer mosquitoes come out, but if you are near La Paz, do not miss this incredible beach!

Just a mile away by road is Playa El Tecolote, another family-oriented beach. This one has a couple restaurants and bars right on the beach with roped off swimming areas. Motorized water sports like jet skis and banana boats are available for rent. We settled in comfortably on the beach chaises at Palapa Azul for a late afternoon cervesa with a gorgeous view of uninhabited Isla Espiritu Santo and the Sea of Cortez.

Jacques Cousteau called the Sea of Cortez “the aquarium of the world” because of its incredible array of marine life. Espiritu Santo is a protected biosphere under UNESCO and offers amazing eco-adventure. The island is fringed with unspoiled, white-sand beaches and costal grottos that make Espiritu Santo a top kayak destination. Beach camping is allowed for a miniscule fee (bring your own everything) or boat tours offer full day adventures from Tecolote. Visitors can see dolphins and whales, snorkel colorful reefs and even swim with sea lions or whale sharks.  Sadly, we didn’t have time for this eco-adventure of a lifetime, but I’m telling you about it so you don’t make the same mistake. We will be sure to make the trip to Espiritu Santo when we return to Baja – and we will return!

If you want to experience the wildlife and beach life of Baja California Sur and the Sea of Cortez, please contact the vacation advisors at Covington Travel for help planning your trip.